The rare pennies list: rare American pennies to check for
These are the rare American pennies that turn a jar of change into a real find. Every one of them is defined by a date, a mint mark, or a striking error you can see with a loupe:
| Penny | Why it is rare | What to look for |
|---|---|---|
| 1909-S VDB | Tiny San Francisco mintage of the first Lincoln cent | S mint mark under the date, VDB initials on the bottom rim of the reverse |
| 1914-D | Low Denver mintage, heavily circulated | D under the date; beware added mint marks on fakes |
| 1922 no-D | A worn Denver die dropped the mint mark entirely | 1922 with no mint mark at all (Philadelphia struck no cents that year) |
| 1931-S | Depression-era mintage cut to a trickle | S under the date, strong details |
| 1943 bronze | Leftover bronze planchets struck in the steel-cent year | A 1943 cent that is copper colored and does NOT stick to a magnet |
| 1944 steel | Leftover steel planchets struck in the bronze year | A 1944 cent that is silvery and DOES stick to a magnet |
| 1955 doubled die | Dramatic die misalignment doubled the whole obverse | Obvious doubling in the date and LIBERTY, visible without magnification |
Older wheat cents in general carry a modest premium over face, which is why we grade the whole jar, not just the stars. The wheat penny value guide walks the common dates.
Quarter dollars worth money
The same checklist logic finds the quarter dollars worth money. Three groups matter. First, every quarter dated 1964 or earlier is 90 percent silver and worth many times face on metal alone. Second, the key dates: the 1932-D and 1932-S Washington quarters were struck in tiny numbers and lead the series. Third, modern errors: off-center strikes, wrong-planchet quarters, and low-mintage varieties that escape into circulation, the kind cataloged in our error coins guide. Bicentennial quarters get their own treatment on the 1776-1976 quarter page.
What creates the rarity of coins?
The rarity of coins comes from three multiplied factors. Mintage: how many the Mint struck in the first place. Survival: how many escaped melting, loss, and pocket wear over the decades. Condition: within the survivors, how many still show sharp detail, which is why grading can separate two identical dates by enormous margins. A coin needs only one factor collapsed to become rare, and the great ones collapsed all three.
That is also why the mint marker matters so much: the same date from a different city can be common or a key. Check the mark before you celebrate or give up on any coin.
High value pennies: the most valuable on this list
The high value end of the list is dominated by the 1943 bronze and 1944 steel transitional errors, the 1909-S VDB, and the 1955 doubled die. Those four collapse mintage, survival, and condition all at once, which is why a single coin from that group can outweigh a whole bucket of common wheat cents. Everything else on the checklist earns a real but smaller premium, and the only way to know which tier yours sits in is a hands-on check.
Large cents, and is a long penny worth anything?
Two oddballs come across the counter constantly. Large cents are the big copper coins the Mint struck from 1793 to 1857, before the small cent existed; even worn ones are collectible, and early dates can be serious money. A long penny, the stretched souvenir rolled through a crank machine at a boardwalk or museum, is the opposite case: it is a keepsake, not a rarity, and carries no collector premium. We will tell you which you have for free.
Found a match, or just not sure? Bring it in. We verify rare pennies and quarters free, in front of you, and pay same-day cash on anything you choose to sell.
Find your nearest of our 8 storesRare pennies and quarters FAQs
What is a mint marker or mint mark on a penny?
The small letter under the date that tells you which US Mint struck the coin: no letter (or P) means Philadelphia, D means Denver, and S means San Francisco. It is the difference between a common coin and a key date, which is why the 1909-S and 1914-D lead the rare pennies list.
How much does it cost to mint or produce a penny?
More than a penny. In recent years the US Mint has spent roughly three cents to produce each one-cent coin, counting the zinc, copper, and manufacturing. That production loss is a big part of why the penny's future keeps coming up, and why older cents keep gaining collector interest.
Who is on the dime?
Franklin D. Roosevelt, who has appeared on the dime since 1946, the year after his death, honoring his connection to the March of Dimes. Before FDR the dime carried the Mercury (Winged Liberty) design, and earlier still the Barber and Liberty Head types that collectors chase today.
Is a one sided dime worth anything?
Sometimes. A genuine one sided dime is usually a die-cap or uniface striking error, and real ones are scarce and collectible. Most blank-on-one-side dimes we see are post-mint grinding or acid damage, which are worth face value. We tell the two apart free, in front of you.
Should I clean a rare penny before bringing it in?
No, never. Cleaning leaves hairline scratches that graders spot instantly and it can cut a rare coin's value dramatically. Bring the coin exactly as found, and leave any certified example in its PCGS or NGC holder.