Is my coin worth its metal or its collector value?
Both numbers exist for every coin, and only one of them gets paid. Which one depends entirely on what the coin is.
- Melt value is the precious metal sealed inside the coin, priced at the live spot market. It is fixed by the coin itself: a pre-1965 Washington quarter holds the same 0.1808 troy ounces of pure silver today as it did the year it was struck. The only variable is spot, which moves every minute the market is open.
- Collector value, which dealers call numismatic value, is what someone will pay for that specific date, mint mark, variety and state of preservation. It has nothing to do with weight. A common date Mercury dime is worth its silver. A 1916-D Mercury dime can be worth many times that to a collector.
Melt is the floor under every coin that contains precious metal. Collector value is the part that sits above the floor on a small minority of coins, and it is the part that is easiest for a careless buyer to miss. Our answer is simple: we look for the collector value first, on every coin, and we pay whichever number is higher.
The rest of this page gives you the floor for the common US coins, the formula to calculate it yourself, and exactly what we check before we quote.
How much silver is in each US coin?
Nearly every US dime, quarter and half dollar struck before 1965 is 90 percent silver. Two exceptions matter and are widely missed: Jefferson nickels made from 1942 to 1945 are 35 percent silver, and Kennedy half dollars from 1965 through 1970 are 40 percent silver. The weights below are the pure silver in each coin, in troy ounces.
| Coin | Years | Silver | Pure silver per coin |
|---|---|---|---|
| Barber, Mercury and Roosevelt dime | 1892 to 1964 | 90% | 0.0723 troy oz |
| Jefferson "war" nickel | 1942 to 1945 | 35% | 0.0563 troy oz |
| Kennedy half dollar, 40 percent issue | 1965 to 1970 | 40% | 0.1479 troy oz |
| Barber, Standing Liberty and Washington quarter | 1892 to 1964 | 90% | 0.1808 troy oz |
| Eisenhower dollar, silver issues only | 1971 to 1976 | 40% | 0.3161 troy oz |
| Barber, Walking Liberty, Franklin and Kennedy half | 1892 to 1964 | 90% | 0.3617 troy oz |
| Morgan and Peace silver dollar | 1878 to 1935 | 90% | 0.7734 troy oz |
| American Silver Eagle | 1986 to today | 99.9% | 1.0000 troy oz |
How to spot a war nickel. Turn it over. From late 1942 through 1945 the mint moved the mint mark to a large letter sitting above the dome of Monticello, and it is the only US coin of that era to carry a P. If the letter is big and on top of the building, it is 35 percent silver. If there is no letter there, it is an ordinary copper and nickel five cent piece.
Which halves are silver. A 1964 Kennedy half is 90 percent silver. A 1965 through 1970 Kennedy half is 40 percent silver and looks almost identical. From 1971 onward the circulating Kennedy half is copper and nickel with no silver at all, though silver proof and commemorative issues sold separately by the mint are a separate case and we check dates on those.
Coins that hold no precious metal, and we will tell you before you drive over. Sacagawea and Presidential "golden dollar" coins are manganese brass with no gold or silver in them. Eisenhower dollars struck for circulation from 1971 to 1978 are copper and nickel; only the separately sold S mint issues from 1971 to 1976 contain silver. Pre-1982 Lincoln cents are 95% copper, which is worth more than face value in metal but is a modest figure per coin. We would rather say all of this up front than have you make the trip for nothing.
How much gold is in a US gold coin?
US gold struck before 1933 is 90 percent gold alloy, and modern bullion coins are near pure. Either way the metal floor is fixed and public, so you can check our arithmetic against it. The right hand column is the pure gold each coin contains.
| Coin | Years | Fineness | Pure gold per coin |
|---|---|---|---|
| Quarter Eagle | 1840 to 1929 | 90% | 0.1209 troy oz |
| British Sovereign | 1817 to today | 91.7% | 0.2354 troy oz |
| Half Eagle | 1839 to 1929 | 90% | 0.2419 troy oz |
| Liberty and Indian Head Eagle | 1838 to 1933 | 90% | 0.4838 troy oz |
| Liberty and Saint-Gaudens Double Eagle | 1850 to 1933 | 90% | 0.9675 troy oz |
| American Gold Eagle, one ounce | 1986 to today | 91.7% | 1.0000 troy oz |
| South African Krugerrand, one ounce | 1967 to today | 91.7% | 1.0000 troy oz |
| Canadian Gold Maple Leaf, one ounce | 1979 to today | 99.99% | 1.0000 troy oz |
| American Gold Buffalo, one ounce | 2006 to today | 99.99% | 1.0000 troy oz |
Fractional American Gold Eagles in half ounce, quarter ounce and tenth ounce sizes hold exactly that fraction of pure gold and are priced the same way. Mexican gold is common at our counters too, and because each denomination has its own fixed content it has its own page: see selling Mexican gold coins for Centenarios, pesos and Libertads.
Pre-1933 US gold deserves one extra word of caution. A common date Double Eagle in circulated condition trades close to its gold content, but early dates, branch mint issues and coins with original mint luster can be worth considerably more than the metal. That is exactly the kind of coin that gets lost when a lot is weighed in bulk, and exactly why we sort before we weigh.
How do I work out my coins' melt value?
You can run this at your kitchen table before you leave the house. Find your coin in the tables above, take its pure metal content in troy ounces, multiply by how many of that coin you have, then multiply by the live spot price. We write the live spot price as $S because it moves every minute the market is open, so any fixed number printed on this page would be wrong by the time you read it.
Worked example: one roll of 40 pre-1965 Washington quarters.
- Pure silver in one quarter: 0.1808 troy oz.
- Multiply by the roll: 0.1808 × 40 = 7.232 troy ounces of pure silver.
- Multiply by spot: 7.232 × $S = the melt value of that roll at that moment.
A second example: a jar of 20 war nickels. 0.0563 × 20 = 1.126 troy ounces of pure silver, then multiply by $S. And on the gold side: a Saint-Gaudens Double Eagle holds 0.9675 troy ounces of pure gold, so 0.9675 × $S at the live gold price is that coin's metal floor.
Mixed handfuls work the same way. Add up the troy ounces coin by coin, then multiply the total once by $S. If you want to check a gold chain or a piece of jewelry with the same arithmetic, the karat version of this formula is in our guide to selling gold in New Jersey.
Now the important part. That figure is the floor, not the ceiling. It is what a coin is worth if it is a common date in ordinary condition. The next section is about the money that sits above the floor, and how we make sure you get it.
Not sure whether you are holding a common date or a key date? Bring it in and watch it checked, free, with no obligation to sell.
📞 Get a Free Coin Evaluation: (732) 483-4145First time selling gold? See exactly what to expect at the counter and what inherited pieces are worth before you decide.
How do you know my coin is not rare before quoting melt?
This is the fear that stops most people from selling, and it is a fair one. A rare coin paid out as scrap silver is money that never comes back. So we settle it in the only way that actually protects you: the collector check happens first, before any melt number is spoken.
Here is what every coin goes through at our counter, in this order:
- Identify. Series, date, mint mark and design type. The mint mark is the small letter (P, D, S, O or CC) showing which mint struck the coin, and on several series it matters more than the date does.
- Check the key dates and varieties. Known rarities, low mintage years, overdates and doubled dies within whatever series you brought. This is the step a scrap counter skips.
- Grade by eye. Original surfaces, wear, strike quality and toning. An uncirculated coin and a well worn one from the same year are two different coins to a collector.
- Split the pile. Anything carrying a premium above its metal is set aside and priced on that premium. Everything else is priced on metal content at the live spot price.
- Show you both piles. You see which coins were pulled out and why, and your receipt lists every coin purchased with the price paid for it.
Two things we will not do. We will never tip a mixed lot onto one scale and quote a single bulk number, because that is precisely how a key date gets paid out as melt. And we will never talk you out of a coin: if a piece is worth more to a specialist collector than it is to us, we say so, and you are free to take it elsewhere with our notes.
If you already suspect you have something unusual, say so when you walk in and bring whatever paperwork came with it. Old dealer envelopes, certificates, auction slips and grading labels all help. Two requests before you come: do not clean anything, because cleaning strips the original surface and can permanently erase a collector premium, and do not crack a coin out of a graded holder, because the holder is part of what a buyer is paying for.
What happens when I walk in with coins?
No appointment, no fee, and no obligation at any point. New Jersey law requires a licensed dealer to record a valid government photo ID for a precious metals purchase, so bring one along with the coins. Everything else happens on the counter where you can see it.
| Step | What happens | What you can watch | About how long |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1. Walk in | You hand over the coins exactly as they are, in whatever jar, album, folder or envelope they live in. Nothing needs sorting first. | Your coins never leave the counter or your sight. | Straight away |
| 2. Identify and sort | Coins are sorted by series, date and mint mark, and anything that may carry a collector premium is set aside before any metal is weighed. | The sorting happens in front of you, and you can ask about any coin. | A few minutes |
| 3. Test and weigh | Bullion and unmarked pieces are verified with a non-destructive XRF analyzer, and metal lots are weighed on a state certified scale. | You see the analyzer reading and the number on the scale. | Seconds per item |
| 4. The offer | You get one figure for the premium coins and one for the metal coins, with the arithmetic laid out against that day's live spot price. | Every figure is written down and explained in plain language. | A few minutes |
| 5. You decide | Accept and take same-day cash, or decline and take your coins home exactly as they arrived. There is no pressure and no closing clock. | An itemized receipt lists every coin purchased and its price. | Same day |
You are never obliged to sell everything, or anything. Plenty of people sell the bullion and the common silver, keep the pieces with family meaning, and walk out with cash and their collection intact.
What if I inherited the collection and do not know what is in it?
Inherited collections are the single largest category of coins we buy, and not knowing what is in the box is the normal starting point, not a problem. Bring the whole thing. Albums, blue folders, mint sets still in cellophane, loose coins in a coffee can, foreign coins somebody brought home from the service, silver certificates and old paper money. All of it gets looked at.
A collection built over decades usually contains three different things at once: bullion and common silver that is worth its metal, a handful of coins with genuine collector premiums, and a quantity of material with no precious metal in it at all. Sorting those three apart is the whole job, and it is why we go through a collection item by item rather than quoting one bulk number for the box.
Two practical notes for executors and families. Bring any paperwork the collection came with, including old appraisals and purchase records, because it can support both the collector value and your own tax position later. And keep the sets intact: a complete album or an original mint set is often worth more whole than the same coins loose. If the estate is large or difficult to move, call ahead on (732) 483-4145 and we will tell you the practical options.
Why sell coins to us rather than a scrap counter?
The difference between a coin buyer and a metal buyer shows up on the small number of coins where it matters most.
Collector Value Checked First
Dates, mint marks, varieties and condition are read before any coin is weighed. Premium coins are priced on the premium, never quietly paid out as melt.
Nothing Weighed in Bulk
Coins are evaluated individually, not tipped onto a scale as a lump. Your receipt itemizes every coin purchased and the price paid for it.
Metal Priced to Live Spot
Common dates are priced on their pure metal content against the live spot market at the moment you sell, with the arithmetic shown to you.
Whole Collections Welcome
One coin or a lifetime accumulation, US or foreign, loose or in albums. Free evaluation, same-day cash, and no obligation to sell any of it.
Where can I sell coins for cash in Central New Jersey?
Cash 4 Gold Trading Post is a licensed, bonded and insured New Jersey precious metals buyer with 8 walk-in stores: Aberdeen, Brick, East Brunswick, Farmingdale, Manalapan, Middlesex, Millstone and New Brunswick. We have been family owned since 2012, we are veteran, woman and minority owned, and we hold a 4.90 star average across 1012 Google reviews with more than 500,000 customers served across Central New Jersey.
Every store buys coins, and every store follows the same order of operations described above. Find your nearest counter, opening times and directions on the locations page, or call (732) 483-4145 and describe what you have before you drive anywhere. If you would rather read this page in Spanish, see vender monedas.
Coin selling questions, answered
How do I know if my coin is rare before I sell it?
That is the right question, and it is the first thing we check. Before any melt number is quoted, each coin is identified by series, date, mint mark and variety, then graded by eye for condition. Anything carrying a collector premium is set aside and priced on that premium instead of its metal. Common dates are priced on metal content at the live spot price. You see which pile each coin lands in and why, and your receipt itemizes every coin purchased.
What US coins are worth more than face value?
Every US dime, quarter and half dollar struck before 1965 is 90 percent silver, as are Morgan and Peace dollars. Jefferson nickels made from 1942 to 1945 are 35 percent silver. Kennedy halves from 1965 through 1970 are 40 percent silver. Lincoln cents made before 1982 are 95 percent copper. All US gold struck before 1933 is 90 percent gold. Any of these carries more than face value on metal content alone, before a collector premium is even considered.
How is a coin's melt value calculated?
Take the pure metal content of the coin in troy ounces, multiply by how many of that coin you have, then multiply by the live spot price. A pre-1965 Washington quarter holds 0.1808 troy ounces of pure silver, so a roll of 40 holds 7.232 troy ounces. Because the spot price moves every minute the market is open, the honest answer always needs that day's price, which is exactly how the offer is built in front of you.
Are 1942 to 1945 nickels really silver?
Yes. Nickel metal was needed for the war effort, so from late 1942 through 1945 the five cent piece was struck in 35 percent silver instead. You can identify one by the large mint mark letter sitting above the dome of Monticello on the reverse, the only US coin of that era to carry a P mint mark. Each war nickel holds 0.0563 troy ounces of pure silver.
Which Kennedy half dollars contain silver?
A 1964 Kennedy half is 90 percent silver and holds 0.3617 troy ounces. A 1965 through 1970 Kennedy half is 40 percent silver and holds 0.1479 troy ounces, and it looks almost identical to the later ones. From 1971 onward the circulating Kennedy half is copper and nickel with no silver at all. Silver proof and commemorative issues sold separately by the mint are a separate case, and we check those dates individually.
What is a golden dollar coin worth?
Face value. Sacagawea and Presidential golden dollars are manganese brass with no gold or silver in them, so there is no premium to pay and we would rather tell you before you make the trip. Eisenhower dollars struck for circulation from 1971 to 1978 are copper and nickel; only the separately sold S mint issues from 1971 to 1976 contain silver. The dollars that hold real silver are the Morgan and Peace dollars struck from 1878 to 1935.
Should I clean my coins before bringing them in?
No, and this is the most expensive mistake a seller can make at home. Cleaning strips the original surface a collector is actually paying for, and it can permanently remove a premium that would otherwise have been part of your offer. A naturally toned Morgan dollar in original condition is worth considerably more than the same coin polished or dipped. Bring your coins exactly as you found them.
Do you buy graded and slabbed coins?
Yes, and please leave them in their holders. A certified coin in its original slab carries the grading service's opinion of authenticity and grade, and that opinion is part of what a buyer pays for. Cracking a coin out to make it easier to carry destroys that. Bring the slabs as they are, along with any certificates or auction paperwork you have.
Do you buy whole collections, and do I have to sell all of it?
We buy entire collections, single coins, rolls, albums and folders, and you are never obliged to sell all of it or any of it. We go through a collection item by item rather than offering one bulk price, so you can see what each part is worth and choose. Many families sell the bullion and common silver, keep the pieces with sentimental value, and walk out with both cash and their collection.
Do you buy foreign gold and silver coins?
Yes. We buy gold and silver coins from most countries, including Canadian Maple Leafs, South African Krugerrands, British Sovereigns, Mexican gold pesos and Libertads, and world silver. Bring them in with everything else and we will evaluate the whole lot together, checking dates on the series where low mintage years carry a premium above metal.
Do I need an appointment or ID to sell coins?
No appointment is needed at any of our 8 Central New Jersey stores. New Jersey law does require a licensed dealer to record a valid government photo ID for every precious metals purchase, so bring a driver's license, state ID or passport. Most coin visits take about 15 minutes, the evaluation is free, and there is no obligation to sell.
Can I sell a variety of US rare coins in New Jersey in one visit?
Yes. A mixed lot of US rare coins, Morgan and Peace dollars, pre-1933 gold, key dates, proof sets and everything in between, is handled in a single visit at any of our 8 New Jersey counters. Each coin is identified by series, date, mint mark and variety and priced on its own merits, collector premium first, so a varied collection is never flattened into one bulk melt number.
More on selling coins, silver and gold in New Jersey
Where to sell coins · Coin shop in New Jersey · Buy gold coins · Sell silver · All FAQs