Which 1776-1976 quarters are actually worth money?
Every Bicentennial quarter carries the double date and Jack L. Ahr's drummer boy, but the metal and the mint mark divide them into very different coins:
| Version | How to spot it | Composition | What it is worth |
|---|---|---|---|
| Circulated clad | No mint mark or D, from pocket change | Copper-nickel clad | Face value |
| Uncirculated clad | Mint-fresh, often from mint sets | Copper-nickel clad | A small collector premium |
| 40% silver, S mint mark | S under the date, from collector sets | 40% silver, 0.0739 troy oz | Silver value right now: —, plus a premium |
| Proofs (clad and silver) | S mint mark, mirror finish | Clad or 40% silver | A collector premium over the same coin's base value |
| Dramatic errors | Strong doubled dies, wrong planchet | Varies | Case by case; the best bring serious money |
The silver versions were never released into circulation. The San Francisco Mint struck them only for collector sets sold by mail, so a silver Bicentennial quarter almost always arrives in or from a red or brown government set. Each one carries 0.0739 troy ounces of pure silver, and that live value above is its floor.
How do I tell a silver Bicentennial quarter from a clad one?
Look at the edge. A clad quarter shows a copper stripe running around the rim, the exposed copper core between its nickel faces. The 40 percent silver version has no copper core, so its edge is a solid silvery color with no stripe. Check the mint mark too: silver Bicentennials all carry an S under the date, though an S alone is not proof of silver, because clad proofs were also struck at San Francisco. Stripe plus S-mark together settle it in five seconds, and the counter confirms it by weight.
Errors are the wildcard. The Mint struck these quarters by the hundreds of millions, and mistakes escaped: strongly doubled dies, quarters struck on the wrong planchet, and major off-center strikes. Genuine dramatic errors are rare and most suspected ones turn out to be ordinary damage, but they are exactly what a free counter check is for. The same 1964 dividing line that governs regular quarters is explained in what dimes and quarters are made of.
What should I do with my Bicentennial quarters?
Do not sort alone, and do not assume the whole jar is treasure or the whole jar is junk. Bring it in as it is. The counter separates silver from clad by edge and weight, pulls proofs and anything that looks like a real error, checks collector value before any melt number is discussed, and pays same-day cash for what you choose to sell. We buy outright, the check is free, and honest news that a coin is worth face value costs you nothing but the drive.
All 8 Central New Jersey stores handle coin jars every week: Aberdeen, Brick, East Brunswick, Farmingdale, Manalapan, Middlesex, Millstone, and New Brunswick. Call (732) 483-4145 with questions first.
One drummer boy quarter or a whole jar: silver sorted from clad in front of you, collector value checked first, paid the same day.
Find your nearest of our 8 storesBicentennial quarter FAQs
Are Bicentennial quarters worth anything?
Ordinary circulated 1776-1976 quarters are worth face value; they were struck by the hundreds of millions. The valuable ones are the 40 percent silver S-mint versions from collector sets, proofs, and genuine dramatic errors like strong doubled dies or wrong-planchet strikes.
How can I tell if my 1776-1976 quarter is silver?
Check the edge. A clad quarter shows a copper stripe around the rim; the 40 percent silver version has a solid silvery edge with no stripe, and it also carries an S mint mark under the date. Each silver one contains 0.0739 troy ounces of pure silver.
Why is there no quarter dated 1975?
Every quarter struck in 1975 and 1976 carries the dual date 1776-1976 for the nation's two hundredth birthday, so no United States quarter bears a 1975 date. The dual date alone does not make a coin rare; nearly two billion were struck.
What Bicentennial quarter errors are worth money?
Strongly doubled dies, quarters struck on the wrong planchet, and major off-center strikes are the ones collectors chase. Genuine examples are rare and most suspected errors turn out to be ordinary damage, which is why the free counter check comes before any conclusion.